Costa Rico Birding Trip
Doug Hlousek
April 7 – April 16, 2013
Late last summer, Phyllis surprised me by announcing that she was giving me a birding trip to Costa Rica. I had expressed my interest in Costa Rica, and birding there for years. So here it was; the trip of a lifetime! And it certainly was, being everything I had hoped for!
I contacted a friend I had met in Puerto Rico when we lived there, and he gave me his daughter, Gretchen’s, contact information Gretchen runs Pacific Trade Winds, located in Costa Rica. They specialize in custom-tailored excursions in Costa Rica. However, I put her to the test, as she had worked with many groups, but never organized a trip exclusive for birding for one person. She planned the trip around my target bird, the Resplendent Quetzal, arranging the trip to include both locations where there was a high probability of seeing it. So, I then spent the time from August until my departure, compiling every scrap of information about what birds I might see at each location.
I planned to post photos, but as I put them together, I realized that the few photos I did get with my point-and-shoot camera weren’t great, and there were things I saw that I wanted to share. So, I went online to find photos of the things I couldn’t capture, so that everyone could have a visual of my experience. Following are my memories of the trip. Though a bit long, my goal is to have you experience as much of my trip as possible.
Day 1 – Sunday, Apr 7 My friend Myer and his grandson Kyle picked me up at 5 AM, with my carry-on and a backpack and I was off for the Providence Airport! After a quick flight to Charlotte, and then a smooth flight over the Gulf of Mexico, my plane arrived early in San Jose. I only had carry-on, so quickly cleared Customs, and was met by a Pacific Trade Winds representative who directed me to the exit where my driver, Hugo, was waiting. He immediately asked if I needed anything, and then stopped at a market for a bottle of water. (It was the last bottled water I drank, as the tap water everywhere I stayed was excellent, coming directly from mountain springs.) Hugo spoke English well, drove safely and provided interesting commentary about the country during the 3-hour drive to Monteverde, where my eco-lodge was located in the Central Highlands, about ¾ of a mile above sea level.
The main highways are paved, and in pretty good condition. Many of the secondary roads are only paved in sections; mostly on real steep sections and often in the main towns. Hugo drove like all Costa Rican drivers I was exposed to; cutting across the lanes to go around corners on the inside lane. Scary, especially on the narrow mountain roads! On some of the steep (and I mean steep), unpaved roads the uphill driver has the right of way, which helps when the downhill driver pays attention. The unpaved roads were really rough, and as we approached an unpaved section every driver always said, “Now for a Costa Rican massage.” I’m glad it was the dry season, as I can only imagine the unpaved roads when they are muck and mire, especially combined with the steepness and sharp curves.
Cloud Forest Lodge. I was surprised when I arrived after a half mile of rough riding on the lodge’s driveway, to break out of the forest and see immaculately manicured grounds, with beautiful flowering trees and flowers, and many of the cabins located to take advantage of the view. The lodge had a large and very pleasant restaurant, complete with linen tablecloths and napkins. There was a windowed porch looking out over the forest and mountains, with the Gulf of Nicoya, an arm of the Pacific, in the distance. Ivan was my server throughout most of my stay and he was really sharp, informative, and always interested in my daily activities. All meals were selected from an extensive menu, were top quality, prepared perfectly and served well. Breakfasts were complementary, and the one box breakfast I needed because of an early birding trip was easily arranged. And food in the box (a brown-paper bag, typical of the box lunches) was good and ample.
I was assisted by Michael at the front desk. Upon my arrival, I learned that I could put restaurant charges on my room, but, though they had told me by email that American
Express was accepted, I was politely informed me that they would not honor that card. Fortunately, I had a backup. My cabin was really comfortable, with both a double and single bed, (typical in all my lodges)
and a spacious bathroom, with shampoos, conditioners and skin lotions provided. (This was the only lodge that provided these.)
My first day I had difficulty with my Costa Rica Cellular Connection cell phone through my own fault, having misplaced my paperwork, sim card and password. So, the first night Michael helped me use the lodge
phone for an international call home. He was also very helpful when I finally found my sim card the next day, stuck in one of the many pockets of my luggage, and had to install it. He actually did it all for me. The cell phone reception at the lodge was only good when standing on the lodge porch.
Day 2 – Monday, Apr 8 — Met by my driver at 6 AM for a half day birding tour of Selvatura, .located 20 minutes from the lodge, which has zip-lining, canopy tours, and other outdoor adventure experiences. It
also has Hanging Bridges, a 1.9 mile loop with eight bridges over the forest canopy, where I birded with my guide Eduardo.
Eduardo spoke English well, and knew the birds. I learned that he was the most experienced birding guide at Selvatura, and that I was the first single birder he ever guided for. He and I had a lot of fun as we worked together to identify some of the trickier birds. It was nice to hear him say that he had the most fun he’d ever had, and learned a lot on our birding tour.
He first showed me the Hummingbird Gallery, which was an area with about a dozen hummingbird feeders. It was active, though all the species I saw had been seen at Cloud Forest the previous evening. The 1.9 mile Hanging Bridges loop was next, and it was very productive, with a juvenile Quetzal, my target bird seen, along with a Bellbird. (Look up on the internet and listen to their unique sound)
On the bridge loop, we extended our walk beyond what Eduardo had planned, backtracking at times, to follow the call of a bird not yet seen, opting to reduce the time for the butterfly garden visit. Of the 26 species seen here, 24 were new for me.
I only spent 15 minutes in the Butterfly Garden, which wasn’t a priority for me. I noticed Monarch butterflies and when I asked about them, I learned that the Monarch in Costa Rica is a native; they do not migrate to North America, but migrate vertically, from the low, or mid-levels to the high mountains as the seasons change from dry to rainy. Also, Milkweed, their primary food, grows in country, and is the only plant on which the butterfly lays its eggs. On the bridge loop we saw a couple of troops of Howler Monkeys overhead, some Variegated squirrels (which look like ours, only in various colors) and there was a White-nosed Coati wandering on the lawn in front of the restaurant.(I only got a shot of his backend, so here is a downloaded picture)
In the afternoon I birded the Cloud Forest lodge grounds, and part of the River Trail, one of the number of trails on the property. In addition to the birds along the trail, I saw another White-nosed Coati, which stepped onto the trail about ten feet in front of me, but my camera reflexes weren’t good enough, so no photo. The lodge grounds are really beautiful, and the River Trail was well groomed, though there were some steep spots where the hose railings were loose, but not dangerously so. It would be a difficult trail for anyone who had walking issues. though the beginning sections are fine.
Day 3 – Tuesday, Apr 9 —I was picked up at 5:45 by my guide Michael for a half day birding tour of the Ficus Trail, 15 minutes away, near the entrance to the Monteverde Reserve. He had a very good grasp of English, and knew the local birds. He showed me how to digi-scope using my little Canon point-and-shoot camera, and I quickly learned that I need to practice this procedure. We birded along a dirt road, providing good views of birds in the open space, and I picked up 8 new species among the 27 species we saw. Near the end of the tour time, Michael asked what my plans were for the afternoon. He said he was free, and since I had missed some target birds, he offered to go home, borrow his uncle’s car and pick me up at the lodge to bird the family farm a few miles away in Alto Cebadilla, at no extra charge. (I did tip him)
He dropped me at the Cloud Forest Lodge for lunch, and then, while waiting, I birded the Pizote trail. While checking my birding guide, trying to determine what the small birds I saw were, I looked down and saw three Black-breasted Wood Quail (plain brown, chicken-size birds) stroll up to within a meter of me and start turning over leaves, looking for food. After five minutes, one left and the other two put their heads under their wings and went to sleep! These birds are not only endemic to Costa Rica and western Panama, but are very hard to see. Pleasant encounter and I did ID the small birds!
Michael picked me up, right on time, and we drove to his family farm, where his family also owns Xtreme, (not sure if this is spelled correctly) They offer horseback riding, zip-lining, Superman, and other outdoor sporting events. This area is so safe that they don’t lock their house or car doors.
We then birded the farm, which contains a small coffee plantation, pastures with horses and cattle, and sections of forest. We saw Motmots, Trogons, Hoffman’s Woodpeckers, (Only found in Costa Rica and Honduras), and a White-throated Magpie-Jay.
We spent a while tracking down (almost on our hands-and-knees in the forest) some Long-tailed Manakins we heard. Finally found a male and juvenile, face-to-face on a branch competing as loudly as they could for a female perched a few feet away. (The adult finally won the shouting match.) We saw a total of 34 species, with 6 new birds for me.
Michael also explained to me how the Clay-colored Robin, a really dull brown bird, became the National bird. I noticed that the robin had many different songs and calls, and he explained that one song isn’t sung until about two weeks before the rainy season starts. This is a sign to the farmers that they need to prepare and plant. Interesting story, and, since agriculture is so critical, it explains why a more colorful bird wasn’t chosen. A fun afternoon!
While at Cloud Forest, Howler Monkeys, parading through the tree tops just outside my cabin, were my 5 o’clock alarm clock each morning. (Go online and listen to what I heard) I never saw them outside my cabin, but did see an Agouti, a rodent, on the grounds below the restaurant porch.
My cabin was clean, well taken care of during my stay, and was quiet at night. The staff was pleasant, interacted with guests and very informative and helpful. The daytime temperatures in the cloud forest were in the low 70s, and night time lows were in the upper 50s. It was an eerie feeling as the late afternoon clouds literally blew in over the mountains on a strong wind, which blew day and night, and the moisture from the clouds that collected on the trees “rained.” Under the trees you would get soaked; in the open, there was only a fine mist.
My birding experience in the Central Highlands produced 85 species, with 45 “lifers.” Eleven of those were endemic to the area, and one can only be seen in Costa Rica, or nearby in Central America. A great start!
Day 4 – Wednesday, Apr 10 — My driver Manuel picked me up just before 9 AM for the trip to Hacienda Baru, on the Central Pacific coast. We experience 15-miles of “massage” before hitting the paved roads, and initially, the scenery was extremely dry – Yucca plants and a few cacti. When we reached the coast, it got greener, and was a more pleasant ride. After a 2-1/2 hour drive, we arrived at the Rio Tarcoles, where Manuel dropped me off so I could walk across the bridge. This bridge is also known as the “Crocodile Bridge”, and I quickly saw why! I saw this crocodile congregation beneath the bridge and there were many more individual crocs scattered around.
I also saw a number of wading birds, including a number of Northern Jacana, a “lifer”. Note the size of their feet; they actually walk across Lilly pads and other water vegetation, picking up the edges of the leaves to find prey.
We the stopped at a new entrance to Carara National Park, a spot I added to my original itinerary, so I could experience the great birding reported to be there. However, we found it was closed due to construction. The main Ranger Station, further down the road also had construction. I paid the entrance fee of $10.00, and we drove back to another entry just past the bridge. The Ranger warned us to be on the alert for car thieves, as they were notorious at that parking lot. However, Manuel remained with the car, and there was a construction crew working there, so it was fine.
As it turns out, I only birded for 20 minutes for two reasons: my poor planning put me there at the worst time of day for birding; high noon! Also, it was extremely hot, (high 90s) and humid, and two birders coming out of the trail had only seen a handful of birds over the previous hour. Rather than take a chance that I’d see more, I opted to cut this stop short and get to my final destination. I did see three new birds, one at the Ranger Station, the others on my short walk, and one of them actually wandered up to me while I was standing there deciding what to do. A bird coming up to me was something I experienced a few times on this trip, and it sure is a different way to bird!
Manuel kept me informed about all the agriculture we passed; rice, just being planted, and the palm oil plantations and factories. The palm plantations extended for miles and replaced the Chiquita Banana plantations that had succumbed to a fungus years ago. The original towns built for the banana farmers were now the homes of the palm oil workers. They cut the fruit, the lemon-sized seeds are extracted, and these are crushed to make palm oil. The workers work 10-12 hour days, six days a week and they can’t keep up with the demand. They start at $400 per week, with a home and all utilities provided, working up to $700 a week, and a better home.
Every time I was in a car, I was aware of something different, but it didn’t register until this trip; there is no trash alongside the roads! During my whole trip I know I could count the trash I saw on one hand. Also, all lighting at the lodges is with the new light bulbs – no incandescent bulbs at all. The people are very environmentally conscious.
Hacienda Baru. We arrived at Hacienda Baru at 2 PM. Hacienda Baru is actually a National Reserve, containing a lodge, managed for the government by the owners. The reserve is located on a narrow stretch of lowlands right on the Pacific Coast, with the ocean on the west and about a quarter of a mile to the east the mountains begin abruptly, reaching to over a half mile high.
The Reserve also contains a Teak plantation, a Ridley Turtle Hatchery, and education center, a mountain camp, and a long stretch of beach along the ocean which is open to the public.
Part of their arrangement with the government, is that the first roughly 1000 feet from the ocean is “free;” anyone can use it and camp on it, but not build any permanent structures. A road extends from the reception area to the beach where there is a large structure with four foot walls filled with sand; the turtle hatchery, The Ridley sea turtle is thought to be the most numerous sea turtle, yet is considered endangered because of their few remaining nesting sites in the world, Costa Rico being one of them. No egg-laying or hatching was going on during my visit.
The lodge contains a reception area, with a well-stocked gift shop; a comfortable outdoor restaurant; an enclosed butterfly garden; an orchid garden that had no blossoming orchids, as they bloom during the rainy season; and an in-ground swimming pool. The lodge offers a number of outdoor adventure experiences, led by a staff of guides. Jack, the owner, was on hand much of the time, and offered interesting stories, answered questions, and was very helpful
All the staff was great; those at reception knew English well, and were really helpful, answering my questions, and providing information. The restaurant offered great selections from the menu, the fruit was all fresh, and the staff was always attentive and polite. Those at the restaurant knew limited English, being able to communicate about the menu and offer a few other words here and there. This stay really put my rusty Spanish to the test, and I have to say, I surprised myself and actually enjoyed some interesting and pleasant conversations during my meals, as the staff got into my attempts at Spanish, helping me when I floundered. The food was well prepared, and everything I ordered was great. (I broke down and had a hamburger and fries my last night, and it was delicious – prepared just right.) Buffet breakfasts were available, and I couldn’t resist seconds on the fresh fruit.
Here at Hacienda Baru, once again an immaculate cabin with a double and a single bed. Very necessary overhead fans, as the temperature and humidity were far different from Monteverde – the upper 80s to low 90s during the day, and upper 70s at night, and really high humidity. Comfortable rocking chairs were on the porch overlooking the grounds, making birding, when not on the trails, relaxing. I did need a flashlight to lock and unlock my door when I went to supper, as outside lights were at a minimum.
I was told that there was no reception for cell phones, unless you walked out to the highway, which was really noisy. So, I experimented and tried the 23 foot tower they have in the jungle to provide tree top level birding. The reception was excellent!
Day 5 – Thursday, Apr 11 — All the guides on staff are experienced birders, and they rotate to provide equal time for each. Oldman (actually 28 years old) was my guide for my 6 AM Lowland Bird Watching Hike, a five mile trek through well maintained trails in the lowlands along the coast, including the edge of the Mangroves. His English was almost perfect. After four hours, we stopped and had breakfast, which was waiting at a spot with chairs and tables. Staff had hiked in with everything, and it was hot and delicious. We then birded the edge of the mangroves for an hour while heading back along the Pizole Trail.
We encountered a troop of 15 Spider Monkeys traveling through the trees; each following on the same exact branches as the previous one. One of the males was missing an arm, and Oldman said he had probably gotten too close to a Caiman, a small, but vicious type of alligator. When we were at the mangrove edges we had to look carefully as the Caimans hunt in the water at night, and usually sleep on land during the heat of the day under the low hanging palm branches. We didn’t encounter any, which is just as well.
We did see Three-toed and Two-toed Sloths sleeping in the tree branches. The best I can tell is that the dark colored ones are three-toed, and the light ones are two-toed.
Overall, we spent over six hours birding; saw 52 species, and I added 15 “lifers,” my favorite being a male Blue Dacnis. Oldman heard many other birds, which he identified by their calls, but I only count those birds seen, so those remain for someone else to see.
Late in the afternoon, I walked the Strangler Trail, 0.6 miles through the Lowlands, to the beach returning by the beach road. At one point, as I exited the forest trail onto a 100-foot long boardwalk, I saw at the other end a large black cat! My first reaction – Jaguar! I froze, and watched as the cat went over and under “his” end of the boardwalk, until he finally walked into the thick reeds to one side, where, by the movement of the reeds, I watched it move away. I then rapidly crossed the boardwalk, while keeping an eye on my back, as I headed toward the beach. Jack, the owner, told me that it was probably was a Jaguarundi, a type of puma, with a length of about 30 in, and a tail up to 24 in long. They were not usually on the reserve, but he had one other report just a few days before, and based on my report, was going to set infra-red trip cameras to confirm it.
Day 6 – Friday, Apr 12 — My original itinerary called for a 6 AM departure for a Damas Island Kayaking Safari, a few miles back up the coast. I originally signed up for this group tour for a break, though, even with the long days, I slept well, so really wasn’t tired. I learned that the trips are governed by the tides, and my pickup was not to be until 11:30 AM, giving me time to bird the 1.5 mile Teak and Canal Trail. Oldman had told me that I should get out early, as I would have a chance of spotting Red-legged Honeycreepers feeding on nectar from the flowers of the teak trees. Sure enough, just after entering the teak plantation, there were two males at the top of one of the trees!
I continued the trail and encountered 24 species, including 9 more “lifers. I also encountered another troop of Spider Monkeys, and they decided they would try to scare me off by throwing branches and bark at me. They already tormented me every morning at 5 AM, by trooping past my cabin, just out of sight, making a horrendous racket. No one needs alarm clocks in Costa Rica if there is a troop of monkeys in the area.
I ended up again at the beach, which was beautiful in the morning light. It runs rough here, and during high tide it roars, providing nice “white noise” at night in my cabin a quarter of a mile away. No swimming here, as the rip-tides are vicious.
As usual, my driver, with the guide for the kayak safari arrived right on time. It was a half-hour trip back up the coast, and enroute we picked up others who were signed up for this group tour. When the guide learned that I was interested in birds, he had the driver stop at the office, and he switched with another guide, Dennis, who is also a birder. I learned that the kayaks were deep-sea kayaks, requiring climbing down into the hole on top, and sitting in water. Since I was wearing a back brace (wore it all the time, even on the plane, just in case. Had no problems) I opted to take the boat instead. It was a wise choice!
First, we were served a delicious lunch, and then we were off for a two-hour tour! There were nine of us in a canopied boat, and it was relaxing and fun. Dennis sat at the other end and we competed to see who could spot the birds first. Everyone seemed to enjoy this bit of unexpected by-play, and joined in – there wasn’t a bird free from detection!
We found a Long-nosed Bat “sleeping place.” They evidently line up vertically on the trunk of a tree to sleep. I tried to get a good photo, but the light and distance weren't right, but they are visible on the upper right.
We found the two birds I was hoping to see in the mangroves, the Mangrove Yellow Warbler, a resident, and the Mangrove Hummingbird, found only in Costa Rica.
We then found two types of anteaters sleeping in trees right next to the water. One is the Pygmy, or Silky Anteater, only 7” long, the smallest in the world, never leaves the trees and is extremely hard to find or see. The one we saw was right out on an open limb, sound asleep.
The other anteater seen, in the next canal is the medium-sized Anteater, the Tamandua, or Collared Anteater.
During the boat ride in the mangroves, we saw and learned about the four different types of mangroves, (I now know how to tell if I’m near firm ground, or near the ocean if ever lost in mangroves). We did encounter a 16“long baby crocodile swimming, but the light was terrible, so no photo. So the kayak, aka mangrove boat trip safari resulted in some pretty neat animal sightings, as well as 16 different bird species; with 7 “lifers.”
Day 7 – Saturday, Apr 13 —The 6:00 AM start for the Rainforest Bird Watching Hike on the mountainous part of the Baru Reserve was guided by Dieber, a young man who, though a guide for other activities, has only been a birding guide for six months. That sure wasn’t a problem. As it turns out, he has been birding with his father since he was a boy. His English was also excellent. In fact, he is seriously considering going to college to become an English teacher.
We started the hike at an elevation of about 10 feet above sea level, and eventually climbed through the
rain forest to an elevation of around 1000 feet. I noticed a number of trees covered with thorns and when I asked about them, I was told that it was a cedar, and the area where we were used to be a cedar plantation. These sure are different than our cedars in the U.S.
The trail was well groomed, but it was still a climb. Wildlife was sparse, but we did see a Collared Peccary, which is a type of wild pig. After a great start, picking up a number of birds during the first ten minutes, we saw nothing for the next 15. I was beginning to wonder about Deiber, and the trail when we encountered our first “mixed flock” of birds accompanying Army Ants conducting a “raid” through the forest.
The ants form a column and forage, causing insects, lizards, frogs and anything capable of fleeing to escape ahead of them. The “mixed flocks” of aptly named Antbirds, Antwrens, Antshrikes, Ant-Tanagers, and Antthrushes devour these fleeing victims. Nature at work!
Another ant we encountered in the rain forest is the Leaf-cutter Ant. They prepare paths along the forest floor, individually picking up everything in the path so that they can travel easily. If they can’t move something alone, they join up to try to move the item, and if that fails, they then chew through it.
They take the leaves to their nest, where they place it in a “fungus garden” that the ants have planted. The leaves rot, providing food for the fungus, which is cultivated by the adults to feed the ant larvae, and the adult ants feed off the leaf sap. The fungus needs the ants to stay alive, and the larvae need the fungus to stay alive.
I had been noticing some familiar structures in some of the trees; termite nests. Termites only eat dead wood, but build their nests on live branches, so they won’t break off and fall. Some birds actually make holes in these nests and build their own nests inside. The termites don’t bite or eat the eggs or young, and the birds don’t eat the termites.
After three hours of hiking and birding, we arrived at the camp, the original Hacienda Baru. It is a few simple cabins, and an outhouse and the camp is used now for overnight tours, and by education groups.
All our food had to be carried up the mountain by staff in their backpacks, to provide a hot breakfast, with juice and coffee. Deiber’s father was one of those who carried the food up, and soon he was very busy spotting additional birds for us as we ate. After finishing our lunch, and birding in the camp, we headed around the top of the mountain and down to the lodge. Overall another six hour, 4-mile hike.
Along the way, I had mentioned that I had seen few frogs, and within minutes Deiber pointed out a Green and Black dart frog, and we saw them frequently as we hiked. At one point Deiber asked if I’d like a photo. When I said yes, he picked up a stick, and started to move the leaves that were partially covering a frog. I asked him why the stick and he told me that these frogs are poisonous, only releases its poison if it feels that it is threatened, and wild specimens can actually be handled if the person holding it is calm and relaxed. We didn’t opt to test this theory!
I mentioned that I had only seen one snake, a Green Vine Snake outside my cabin, and he said that snakes are numerous, but tend to avoid traveled trails, so are usually unseen. He did tell me about the Eyelash Pit Viper, which occurs in a wide range of colors, including red, yellow, brown, green, even pink, as well as various combinations. Each seems to hunt different prey, the yellow ones specializing in hummingbirds.
The birding highlights of this trip were a Crested Owl, a Long-billed Hermit, (a less than colorful Hummingbird) and a Fiery-billed Aracari, a Toucan relative.
I encountered the Long-billed Hermit twice on the Baru trails, and both times, it flew right up in front of my face and hovered about 18” away. The “hummers” are one of those “up-close and personal” birds, apparently filled with curiosity.
I saw fifty-one species and added 16 “lifers” on this hike.
I ended the day with a walk down the beach road, encountering another troop of Spider Monkeys that enjoyed throwing things at me. I also added one more “lifer.”
Day 8 – Sunday, Apr 14 — My driver, Jeffrey arrived just before 11AM for the 2-1/2-hour drive to Trogon Lodge, an Eco-lodge in Savegre, part of San Gerardo de Dota, in the central cloud forests of the South Central region. As we drove, we just kept climbing, on well paved roads, with some stunning views. At times, we were behind tractor-trailers moving at 10-12 MPH on the steep grades. They were all heading toward San Jose with fresh produce and livestock. They were helpful though, either waving us around them, or showing their turn lights when the road was clear ahead. A lot of trust involved here!.
After climbing to an altitude of 10,000 feet, (his car had a built in altimeter) we reached our turnoff, a 4.5 mile unpaved, really steep downhill, with numerous hairpin turns that took us back down to 7000 feet, or 1.3 miles above sea level. Now the temperature was around 70; the humidity was still there, but much lower. The nights got down to the low 50s, and every night one of the staff lit a gas-fired heater in all the cabins.
Trogon Lodge. Trogon Lodge really surprised me, being located so deeply into the forest. It had a trout pond, beautiful restaurant, nature trails, and immaculate grounds, with flowers everywhere.
The staff, Greivin, and Adrianna, were really helpful, placing international calls, as there was no cell reception down in the valley; answering questions; and especially helping get my boarding passes printed. All the meals at the restaurant were buffet-style, which seems to be the norm for lodges in San Gerardo de Dota. This area specializes in birding, and a bird tour organizer I met at Trogon told me that of all the local lodges Trogon has the best food. The two wait-staff were somewhat formal; they only told us where to sit, and picked up empty plates. They were polite, spoke English, but were not very interactive. I enjoyed the restaurants at Cloud Forest and Baru much more because of the interaction, and being able to order from the menu. The food was very good, but since everyone arrived for meals at almost the same time, the lines were long, and confusing. I ordered a box breakfast, and the information was never given to the kitchen. Greivin did find some things for me to take; juice, two cookies and some sliced pineapple.
After settling in upon my arrival, I did explore one trail, which was very rough. I saw 17 species and added 7 “lifers.” I cut the walk short, as the trail wasn’t overly user friendly, and I was also feeling effects of the altitude.
Day 9 – Monday, Apr 15 — My guide for the day, Marino, arrived at 5:45 AM, to take me for a full day of birding, with the main goal being finding and seeing the Resplendent Quetzal. It was scheduled to be a 6-7 hour trip, and 11 hours later I arrived back at the lodge, having had another successful day. Marino spoke excellent English, was known by everyone, and I was told by numerous people we met that he is known for his birding expertise. He was at least in his late 50s or early 60s, but his energy was unbelievable. When he arrived to pick me up he immediately noticed the birds, and in 15 minutes, before we even got in the car, I had seen 14 species, with 6 “lifers,” including 5 endemic to Central America. Marino was really something! He heard the bird, found it, and made sure I saw it well before going on to the next one; a preview of our day together.
So, off we went, getting about 1 mile down the road, when he stopped and jumped out of the car to show me something else he spotted. Ten minutes later we headed out again, having seen 10 species, with another “lifer.” Our destination was Savagre Lodge, which is the “original” birder’s destination in Costa Rica. It was a sprawling complex, beautifully manicured, with meeting rooms, a spa, huge restaurant, and cabins. It certainly wasn’t the “rustic” birding lodge I had pictured. It was big, overly organized, and trying to be everything to everyone. We immediately “birded” around the lodge, and in 20 minutes, had 28 species, with five more “lifers.” Marino then took me to the restaurant, told them I was his guest, and we had a quick breakfast of fruit and toast before getting back into the car and heading up the mountain behind the lodge. We parked and headed out on the trails, which were nicely groomed, and easy to hike on. Marino was really great, describing bird calls and spotting birds. He knew where there was a Quetzal nest, and had seen a chick there two days earlier. So off we went – nothing! The nest was empty! But almost at the same time he heard Quetzals and we kept going down the trail, as he called them, and soon we spotted a female, a mature male, a juvenile, and the chick, only a day out of the nest. This was my target bird for the trip, and I got the whole family!
We birded for three more hours, and then headed down the mountain. He wanted to check on his wife, who was apparently ill, and we decided to take an hour and a half to grab lunch, while he checked on her. He told the restaurant that I was his guest, so I went through the buffet, and sat on the porch, watching the birds flying all around, as they fed among the flowers, trees and shrubs.
Marino met me again and we headed off to some mid-level trails on the adjacent property. He spent some time looking for some Spotted Wood Quail he had seen the day before, only to be disappointed. So on we went, and within a few minutes we were deep under the rain forest canopy, and almost immediately the skies opened up and made the rain forest real. Though it was so dark under the canopy that it was hard to see, Marino pressed on. I finally told him that it was time to head back, as the conditions weren’t ideal. He reluctantly headed back, the rain stopped, and once again, we were birding! After seeing few birds during the rain, we walked out of the heavy forest and suddenly encountered a number of species, the neatest being the Spangle-cheeked Tanager.
The entire day with Marino resulted in 44 species seen, with 19 “lifers, including my target bird. I was exhausted, but more than pleased.
Day 10 – Tuesday, Apr 16 — Final Day! I awoke at 5 AM (no monkeys here, but they had instilled a habit) and decided to bird until the restaurant opened at 7 AM. Marino had told me to look for a bird that usually could be seen at Trogon, and, knowing what to look for, I found it, my last “lifer” for the trip. After breakfast and packing, Jeffrey arrived promptly at 9 AM to drive me to the airport. He was as surprised as I was. He told me that it was the first time he ever drove someone so far and then picked them up again for another trip.
Our 2-hour trip was uneventful, taking us through San Jose to the airport, which is actually in Alajuela, the adjacent city. It turns out that arriving early was good, as I needed some of the time. I knew I had to pay an exit tax, but had no idea where. So, having a printed boarding pass, I headed to security, where after snaking through the line, learned that I had to pay the tax and get a receipt at the other end of the terminal. So, I did this, also having to fill out a form that wasn’t too clear. Back to the security line; up to the official, and I learn that they don’t accept an online boarding pass, but that I needed to return to the airline counter to get a new one. Another line. An airline rep checked my departure tax form, and was very helpful with completing the back of the form, which didn’t have any specific instructions that I could see. So, next the new boarding pass, the security line and the same official, who greeted me with a big smile. He checked everything, smiled and said “Senor Douglas, everything is correct.”
My 2:35 PM flight departed on time, and we arrived in Charlotte early. Customs and another security check, and then another on time departure, with an early arrival in Providence Myer and Kyle were there at the bottom of the escalator; Kyle holding up his cell phone with my name displayed on it.
I arrived home, tired, excited to be home, and having experienced a trip that exceeded any dreams of what such a trip would be; 226 different bird species seen, with 143 “lifers;” animals seen that I never even thought of; great guides; wonderful people, spectacular scenery, and excellent food.
Thank you Gretchen, and the rest of the staff at Pacific Trade Winds, for your effective efforts to make this such an outstanding trip. Every driver, lodge, guide and location was top notch, and the experience exceeded my expectations. Thank you Phyllis for this outstanding, once in a lifetime gift!
Express was accepted, I was politely informed me that they would not honor that card. Fortunately, I had a backup. My cabin was really comfortable, with both a double and single bed, (typical in all my lodges)
and a spacious bathroom, with shampoos, conditioners and skin lotions provided. (This was the only lodge that provided these.)
My first day I had difficulty with my Costa Rica Cellular Connection cell phone through my own fault, having misplaced my paperwork, sim card and password. So, the first night Michael helped me use the lodge
phone for an international call home. He was also very helpful when I finally found my sim card the next day, stuck in one of the many pockets of my luggage, and had to install it. He actually did it all for me. The cell phone reception at the lodge was only good when standing on the lodge porch.
Violet Sabrewing outside porch window
Day 2 – Monday, Apr 8 — Met by my driver at 6 AM for a half day birding tour of Selvatura, .located 20 minutes from the lodge, which has zip-lining, canopy tours, and other outdoor adventure experiences. It
also has Hanging Bridges, a 1.9 mile loop with eight bridges over the forest canopy, where I birded with my guide Eduardo.
The longest (510 ft.) and highest (180 ft.) hanging bridge
Eduardo spoke English well, and knew the birds. I learned that he was the most experienced birding guide at Selvatura, and that I was the first single birder he ever guided for. He and I had a lot of fun as we worked together to identify some of the trickier birds. It was nice to hear him say that he had the most fun he’d ever had, and learned a lot on our birding tour.
He first showed me the Hummingbird Gallery, which was an area with about a dozen hummingbird feeders. It was active, though all the species I saw had been seen at Cloud Forest the previous evening. The 1.9 mile Hanging Bridges loop was next, and it was very productive, with a juvenile Quetzal, my target bird seen, along with a Bellbird. (Look up on the internet and listen to their unique sound)
Resplendent Quetzal
Three-Wattled Bellbird
On the bridge loop, we extended our walk beyond what Eduardo had planned, backtracking at times, to follow the call of a bird not yet seen, opting to reduce the time for the butterfly garden visit. Of the 26 species seen here, 24 were new for me.
I only spent 15 minutes in the Butterfly Garden, which wasn’t a priority for me. I noticed Monarch butterflies and when I asked about them, I learned that the Monarch in Costa Rica is a native; they do not migrate to North America, but migrate vertically, from the low, or mid-levels to the high mountains as the seasons change from dry to rainy. Also, Milkweed, their primary food, grows in country, and is the only plant on which the butterfly lays its eggs. On the bridge loop we saw a couple of troops of Howler Monkeys overhead, some Variegated squirrels (which look like ours, only in various colors) and there was a White-nosed Coati wandering on the lawn in front of the restaurant.(I only got a shot of his backend, so here is a downloaded picture)
White-nosed Coati
In the afternoon I birded the Cloud Forest lodge grounds, and part of the River Trail, one of the number of trails on the property. In addition to the birds along the trail, I saw another White-nosed Coati, which stepped onto the trail about ten feet in front of me, but my camera reflexes weren’t good enough, so no photo. The lodge grounds are really beautiful, and the River Trail was well groomed, though there were some steep spots where the hose railings were loose, but not dangerously so. It would be a difficult trail for anyone who had walking issues. though the beginning sections are fine.
Day 3 – Tuesday, Apr 9 —I was picked up at 5:45 by my guide Michael for a half day birding tour of the Ficus Trail, 15 minutes away, near the entrance to the Monteverde Reserve. He had a very good grasp of English, and knew the local birds. He showed me how to digi-scope using my little Canon point-and-shoot camera, and I quickly learned that I need to practice this procedure. We birded along a dirt road, providing good views of birds in the open space, and I picked up 8 new species among the 27 species we saw. Near the end of the tour time, Michael asked what my plans were for the afternoon. He said he was free, and since I had missed some target birds, he offered to go home, borrow his uncle’s car and pick me up at the lodge to bird the family farm a few miles away in Alto Cebadilla, at no extra charge. (I did tip him)
He dropped me at the Cloud Forest Lodge for lunch, and then, while waiting, I birded the Pizote trail. While checking my birding guide, trying to determine what the small birds I saw were, I looked down and saw three Black-breasted Wood Quail (plain brown, chicken-size birds) stroll up to within a meter of me and start turning over leaves, looking for food. After five minutes, one left and the other two put their heads under their wings and went to sleep! These birds are not only endemic to Costa Rica and western Panama, but are very hard to see. Pleasant encounter and I did ID the small birds!
Michael picked me up, right on time, and we drove to his family farm, where his family also owns Xtreme, (not sure if this is spelled correctly) They offer horseback riding, zip-lining, Superman, and other outdoor sporting events. This area is so safe that they don’t lock their house or car doors.
We then birded the farm, which contains a small coffee plantation, pastures with horses and cattle, and sections of forest. We saw Motmots, Trogons, Hoffman’s Woodpeckers, (Only found in Costa Rica and Honduras), and a White-throated Magpie-Jay.
Blue-crowned Motmot
We spent a while tracking down (almost on our hands-and-knees in the forest) some Long-tailed Manakins we heard. Finally found a male and juvenile, face-to-face on a branch competing as loudly as they could for a female perched a few feet away. (The adult finally won the shouting match.) We saw a total of 34 species, with 6 new birds for me.
Long-tailed Manakin (Adult male)
Michael also explained to me how the Clay-colored Robin, a really dull brown bird, became the National bird. I noticed that the robin had many different songs and calls, and he explained that one song isn’t sung until about two weeks before the rainy season starts. This is a sign to the farmers that they need to prepare and plant. Interesting story, and, since agriculture is so critical, it explains why a more colorful bird wasn’t chosen. A fun afternoon!
White-throated Magpie-Jay
While at Cloud Forest, Howler Monkeys, parading through the tree tops just outside my cabin, were my 5 o’clock alarm clock each morning. (Go online and listen to what I heard) I never saw them outside my cabin, but did see an Agouti, a rodent, on the grounds below the restaurant porch.
Agouti
My cabin was clean, well taken care of during my stay, and was quiet at night. The staff was pleasant, interacted with guests and very informative and helpful. The daytime temperatures in the cloud forest were in the low 70s, and night time lows were in the upper 50s. It was an eerie feeling as the late afternoon clouds literally blew in over the mountains on a strong wind, which blew day and night, and the moisture from the clouds that collected on the trees “rained.” Under the trees you would get soaked; in the open, there was only a fine mist.
Cloud Forest
My birding experience in the Central Highlands produced 85 species, with 45 “lifers.” Eleven of those were endemic to the area, and one can only be seen in Costa Rica, or nearby in Central America. A great start!
Day 4 – Wednesday, Apr 10 — My driver Manuel picked me up just before 9 AM for the trip to Hacienda Baru, on the Central Pacific coast. We experience 15-miles of “massage” before hitting the paved roads, and initially, the scenery was extremely dry – Yucca plants and a few cacti. When we reached the coast, it got greener, and was a more pleasant ride. After a 2-1/2 hour drive, we arrived at the Rio Tarcoles, where Manuel dropped me off so I could walk across the bridge. This bridge is also known as the “Crocodile Bridge”, and I quickly saw why! I saw this crocodile congregation beneath the bridge and there were many more individual crocs scattered around.
Crocs in the Rio Tarcoles (My photo)
I also saw a number of wading birds, including a number of Northern Jacana, a “lifer”. Note the size of their feet; they actually walk across Lilly pads and other water vegetation, picking up the edges of the leaves to find prey.
Northern Jacana
We the stopped at a new entrance to Carara National Park, a spot I added to my original itinerary, so I could experience the great birding reported to be there. However, we found it was closed due to construction. The main Ranger Station, further down the road also had construction. I paid the entrance fee of $10.00, and we drove back to another entry just past the bridge. The Ranger warned us to be on the alert for car thieves, as they were notorious at that parking lot. However, Manuel remained with the car, and there was a construction crew working there, so it was fine.
Gartered Trogon (At the Carara NP Ranger Station)
As it turns out, I only birded for 20 minutes for two reasons: my poor planning put me there at the worst time of day for birding; high noon! Also, it was extremely hot, (high 90s) and humid, and two birders coming out of the trail had only seen a handful of birds over the previous hour. Rather than take a chance that I’d see more, I opted to cut this stop short and get to my final destination. I did see three new birds, one at the Ranger Station, the others on my short walk, and one of them actually wandered up to me while I was standing there deciding what to do. A bird coming up to me was something I experienced a few times on this trip, and it sure is a different way to bird!
Manuel kept me informed about all the agriculture we passed; rice, just being planted, and the palm oil plantations and factories. The palm plantations extended for miles and replaced the Chiquita Banana plantations that had succumbed to a fungus years ago. The original towns built for the banana farmers were now the homes of the palm oil workers. They cut the fruit, the lemon-sized seeds are extracted, and these are crushed to make palm oil. The workers work 10-12 hour days, six days a week and they can’t keep up with the demand. They start at $400 per week, with a home and all utilities provided, working up to $700 a week, and a better home.
Palm Oil fruit (This is the top of a 30-foot tree)
Every time I was in a car, I was aware of something different, but it didn’t register until this trip; there is no trash alongside the roads! During my whole trip I know I could count the trash I saw on one hand. Also, all lighting at the lodges is with the new light bulbs – no incandescent bulbs at all. The people are very environmentally conscious.
Hacienda Baru. We arrived at Hacienda Baru at 2 PM. Hacienda Baru is actually a National Reserve, containing a lodge, managed for the government by the owners. The reserve is located on a narrow stretch of lowlands right on the Pacific Coast, with the ocean on the west and about a quarter of a mile to the east the mountains begin abruptly, reaching to over a half mile high.
The Reserve also contains a Teak plantation, a Ridley Turtle Hatchery, and education center, a mountain camp, and a long stretch of beach along the ocean which is open to the public.
Part of their arrangement with the government, is that the first roughly 1000 feet from the ocean is “free;” anyone can use it and camp on it, but not build any permanent structures. A road extends from the reception area to the beach where there is a large structure with four foot walls filled with sand; the turtle hatchery, The Ridley sea turtle is thought to be the most numerous sea turtle, yet is considered endangered because of their few remaining nesting sites in the world, Costa Rico being one of them. No egg-laying or hatching was going on during my visit.
The lodge contains a reception area, with a well-stocked gift shop; a comfortable outdoor restaurant; an enclosed butterfly garden; an orchid garden that had no blossoming orchids, as they bloom during the rainy season; and an in-ground swimming pool. The lodge offers a number of outdoor adventure experiences, led by a staff of guides. Jack, the owner, was on hand much of the time, and offered interesting stories, answered questions, and was very helpful
My cabin in Hacienda Baru
All the staff was great; those at reception knew English well, and were really helpful, answering my questions, and providing information. The restaurant offered great selections from the menu, the fruit was all fresh, and the staff was always attentive and polite. Those at the restaurant knew limited English, being able to communicate about the menu and offer a few other words here and there. This stay really put my rusty Spanish to the test, and I have to say, I surprised myself and actually enjoyed some interesting and pleasant conversations during my meals, as the staff got into my attempts at Spanish, helping me when I floundered. The food was well prepared, and everything I ordered was great. (I broke down and had a hamburger and fries my last night, and it was delicious – prepared just right.) Buffet breakfasts were available, and I couldn’t resist seconds on the fresh fruit.
This Iguana lived on the roof of my cabin
Here at Hacienda Baru, once again an immaculate cabin with a double and a single bed. Very necessary overhead fans, as the temperature and humidity were far different from Monteverde – the upper 80s to low 90s during the day, and upper 70s at night, and really high humidity. Comfortable rocking chairs were on the porch overlooking the grounds, making birding, when not on the trails, relaxing. I did need a flashlight to lock and unlock my door when I went to supper, as outside lights were at a minimum.
I was told that there was no reception for cell phones, unless you walked out to the highway, which was really noisy. So, I experimented and tried the 23 foot tower they have in the jungle to provide tree top level birding. The reception was excellent!
Day 5 – Thursday, Apr 11 — All the guides on staff are experienced birders, and they rotate to provide equal time for each. Oldman (actually 28 years old) was my guide for my 6 AM Lowland Bird Watching Hike, a five mile trek through well maintained trails in the lowlands along the coast, including the edge of the Mangroves. His English was almost perfect. After four hours, we stopped and had breakfast, which was waiting at a spot with chairs and tables. Staff had hiked in with everything, and it was hot and delicious. We then birded the edge of the mangroves for an hour while heading back along the Pizole Trail.
We encountered a troop of 15 Spider Monkeys traveling through the trees; each following on the same exact branches as the previous one. One of the males was missing an arm, and Oldman said he had probably gotten too close to a Caiman, a small, but vicious type of alligator. When we were at the mangrove edges we had to look carefully as the Caimans hunt in the water at night, and usually sleep on land during the heat of the day under the low hanging palm branches. We didn’t encounter any, which is just as well.
Two-toed Sloth
We did see Three-toed and Two-toed Sloths sleeping in the tree branches. The best I can tell is that the dark colored ones are three-toed, and the light ones are two-toed.
Overall, we spent over six hours birding; saw 52 species, and I added 15 “lifers,” my favorite being a male Blue Dacnis. Oldman heard many other birds, which he identified by their calls, but I only count those birds seen, so those remain for someone else to see.
Male Blue Dacnis
Late in the afternoon, I walked the Strangler Trail, 0.6 miles through the Lowlands, to the beach returning by the beach road. At one point, as I exited the forest trail onto a 100-foot long boardwalk, I saw at the other end a large black cat! My first reaction – Jaguar! I froze, and watched as the cat went over and under “his” end of the boardwalk, until he finally walked into the thick reeds to one side, where, by the movement of the reeds, I watched it move away. I then rapidly crossed the boardwalk, while keeping an eye on my back, as I headed toward the beach. Jack, the owner, told me that it was probably was a Jaguarundi, a type of puma, with a length of about 30 in, and a tail up to 24 in long. They were not usually on the reserve, but he had one other report just a few days before, and based on my report, was going to set infra-red trip cameras to confirm it.
Jaguarundi
Day 6 – Friday, Apr 12 — My original itinerary called for a 6 AM departure for a Damas Island Kayaking Safari, a few miles back up the coast. I originally signed up for this group tour for a break, though, even with the long days, I slept well, so really wasn’t tired. I learned that the trips are governed by the tides, and my pickup was not to be until 11:30 AM, giving me time to bird the 1.5 mile Teak and Canal Trail. Oldman had told me that I should get out early, as I would have a chance of spotting Red-legged Honeycreepers feeding on nectar from the flowers of the teak trees. Sure enough, just after entering the teak plantation, there were two males at the top of one of the trees!
Male Red-legged Honeycreeper
I continued the trail and encountered 24 species, including 9 more “lifers. I also encountered another troop of Spider Monkeys, and they decided they would try to scare me off by throwing branches and bark at me. They already tormented me every morning at 5 AM, by trooping past my cabin, just out of sight, making a horrendous racket. No one needs alarm clocks in Costa Rica if there is a troop of monkeys in the area.
I ended up again at the beach, which was beautiful in the morning light. It runs rough here, and during high tide it roars, providing nice “white noise” at night in my cabin a quarter of a mile away. No swimming here, as the rip-tides are vicious.
Pacific Ocean at Hacienda Baru
As usual, my driver, with the guide for the kayak safari arrived right on time. It was a half-hour trip back up the coast, and enroute we picked up others who were signed up for this group tour. When the guide learned that I was interested in birds, he had the driver stop at the office, and he switched with another guide, Dennis, who is also a birder. I learned that the kayaks were deep-sea kayaks, requiring climbing down into the hole on top, and sitting in water. Since I was wearing a back brace (wore it all the time, even on the plane, just in case. Had no problems) I opted to take the boat instead. It was a wise choice!
First, we were served a delicious lunch, and then we were off for a two-hour tour! There were nine of us in a canopied boat, and it was relaxing and fun. Dennis sat at the other end and we competed to see who could spot the birds first. Everyone seemed to enjoy this bit of unexpected by-play, and joined in – there wasn’t a bird free from detection!
We found a Long-nosed Bat “sleeping place.” They evidently line up vertically on the trunk of a tree to sleep. I tried to get a good photo, but the light and distance weren't right, but they are visible on the upper right.
Long-nosed Bats sleeping
We found the two birds I was hoping to see in the mangroves, the Mangrove Yellow Warbler, a resident, and the Mangrove Hummingbird, found only in Costa Rica.
Mangrove Yellow Warbler
Mangrove Hummingbird
We then found two types of anteaters sleeping in trees right next to the water. One is the Pygmy, or Silky Anteater, only 7” long, the smallest in the world, never leaves the trees and is extremely hard to find or see. The one we saw was right out on an open limb, sound asleep.
Pygmy or Silky Anteater
The other anteater seen, in the next canal is the medium-sized Anteater, the Tamandua, or Collared Anteater.
During the boat ride in the mangroves, we saw and learned about the four different types of mangroves, (I now know how to tell if I’m near firm ground, or near the ocean if ever lost in mangroves). We did encounter a 16“long baby crocodile swimming, but the light was terrible, so no photo. So the kayak, aka mangrove boat trip safari resulted in some pretty neat animal sightings, as well as 16 different bird species; with 7 “lifers.”
Collared Anteater
Day 7 – Saturday, Apr 13 —The 6:00 AM start for the Rainforest Bird Watching Hike on the mountainous part of the Baru Reserve was guided by Dieber, a young man who, though a guide for other activities, has only been a birding guide for six months. That sure wasn’t a problem. As it turns out, he has been birding with his father since he was a boy. His English was also excellent. In fact, he is seriously considering going to college to become an English teacher.
Cedar Tree
We started the hike at an elevation of about 10 feet above sea level, and eventually climbed through the
rain forest to an elevation of around 1000 feet. I noticed a number of trees covered with thorns and when I asked about them, I was told that it was a cedar, and the area where we were used to be a cedar plantation. These sure are different than our cedars in the U.S.
The trail was well groomed, but it was still a climb. Wildlife was sparse, but we did see a Collared Peccary, which is a type of wild pig. After a great start, picking up a number of birds during the first ten minutes, we saw nothing for the next 15. I was beginning to wonder about Deiber, and the trail when we encountered our first “mixed flock” of birds accompanying Army Ants conducting a “raid” through the forest.
Army Ants
The ants form a column and forage, causing insects, lizards, frogs and anything capable of fleeing to escape ahead of them. The “mixed flocks” of aptly named Antbirds, Antwrens, Antshrikes, Ant-Tanagers, and Antthrushes devour these fleeing victims. Nature at work!
Another ant we encountered in the rain forest is the Leaf-cutter Ant. They prepare paths along the forest floor, individually picking up everything in the path so that they can travel easily. If they can’t move something alone, they join up to try to move the item, and if that fails, they then chew through it.
Leaf-cutter Ants
They take the leaves to their nest, where they place it in a “fungus garden” that the ants have planted. The leaves rot, providing food for the fungus, which is cultivated by the adults to feed the ant larvae, and the adult ants feed off the leaf sap. The fungus needs the ants to stay alive, and the larvae need the fungus to stay alive.
I had been noticing some familiar structures in some of the trees; termite nests. Termites only eat dead wood, but build their nests on live branches, so they won’t break off and fall. Some birds actually make holes in these nests and build their own nests inside. The termites don’t bite or eat the eggs or young, and the birds don’t eat the termites.
Two-foot diameter Termite Nest
After three hours of hiking and birding, we arrived at the camp, the original Hacienda Baru. It is a few simple cabins, and an outhouse and the camp is used now for overnight tours, and by education groups.
All our food had to be carried up the mountain by staff in their backpacks, to provide a hot breakfast, with juice and coffee. Deiber’s father was one of those who carried the food up, and soon he was very busy spotting additional birds for us as we ate. After finishing our lunch, and birding in the camp, we headed around the top of the mountain and down to the lodge. Overall another six hour, 4-mile hike.
Along the way, I had mentioned that I had seen few frogs, and within minutes Deiber pointed out a Green and Black dart frog, and we saw them frequently as we hiked. At one point Deiber asked if I’d like a photo. When I said yes, he picked up a stick, and started to move the leaves that were partially covering a frog. I asked him why the stick and he told me that these frogs are poisonous, only releases its poison if it feels that it is threatened, and wild specimens can actually be handled if the person holding it is calm and relaxed. We didn’t opt to test this theory!
Green and Black Dart Frog
I mentioned that I had only seen one snake, a Green Vine Snake outside my cabin, and he said that snakes are numerous, but tend to avoid traveled trails, so are usually unseen. He did tell me about the Eyelash Pit Viper, which occurs in a wide range of colors, including red, yellow, brown, green, even pink, as well as various combinations. Each seems to hunt different prey, the yellow ones specializing in hummingbirds.
The birding highlights of this trip were a Crested Owl, a Long-billed Hermit, (a less than colorful Hummingbird) and a Fiery-billed Aracari, a Toucan relative.
Crested Owl
I encountered the Long-billed Hermit twice on the Baru trails, and both times, it flew right up in front of my face and hovered about 18” away. The “hummers” are one of those “up-close and personal” birds, apparently filled with curiosity.
Long-billed hermit
I saw fifty-one species and added 16 “lifers” on this hike.
Fiery-billed Aracari.
I ended the day with a walk down the beach road, encountering another troop of Spider Monkeys that enjoyed throwing things at me. I also added one more “lifer.”
Spider Monkey searching for something to throw.
Day 8 – Sunday, Apr 14 — My driver, Jeffrey arrived just before 11AM for the 2-1/2-hour drive to Trogon Lodge, an Eco-lodge in Savegre, part of San Gerardo de Dota, in the central cloud forests of the South Central region. As we drove, we just kept climbing, on well paved roads, with some stunning views. At times, we were behind tractor-trailers moving at 10-12 MPH on the steep grades. They were all heading toward San Jose with fresh produce and livestock. They were helpful though, either waving us around them, or showing their turn lights when the road was clear ahead. A lot of trust involved here!.
After climbing to an altitude of 10,000 feet, (his car had a built in altimeter) we reached our turnoff, a 4.5 mile unpaved, really steep downhill, with numerous hairpin turns that took us back down to 7000 feet, or 1.3 miles above sea level. Now the temperature was around 70; the humidity was still there, but much lower. The nights got down to the low 50s, and every night one of the staff lit a gas-fired heater in all the cabins.
Trogon Lodge. Trogon Lodge really surprised me, being located so deeply into the forest. It had a trout pond, beautiful restaurant, nature trails, and immaculate grounds, with flowers everywhere.
Trogon Lodge grounds
View from my cabin
The staff, Greivin, and Adrianna, were really helpful, placing international calls, as there was no cell reception down in the valley; answering questions; and especially helping get my boarding passes printed. All the meals at the restaurant were buffet-style, which seems to be the norm for lodges in San Gerardo de Dota. This area specializes in birding, and a bird tour organizer I met at Trogon told me that of all the local lodges Trogon has the best food. The two wait-staff were somewhat formal; they only told us where to sit, and picked up empty plates. They were polite, spoke English, but were not very interactive. I enjoyed the restaurants at Cloud Forest and Baru much more because of the interaction, and being able to order from the menu. The food was very good, but since everyone arrived for meals at almost the same time, the lines were long, and confusing. I ordered a box breakfast, and the information was never given to the kitchen. Greivin did find some things for me to take; juice, two cookies and some sliced pineapple.
After settling in upon my arrival, I did explore one trail, which was very rough. I saw 17 species and added 7 “lifers.” I cut the walk short, as the trail wasn’t overly user friendly, and I was also feeling effects of the altitude.
Day 9 – Monday, Apr 15 — My guide for the day, Marino, arrived at 5:45 AM, to take me for a full day of birding, with the main goal being finding and seeing the Resplendent Quetzal. It was scheduled to be a 6-7 hour trip, and 11 hours later I arrived back at the lodge, having had another successful day. Marino spoke excellent English, was known by everyone, and I was told by numerous people we met that he is known for his birding expertise. He was at least in his late 50s or early 60s, but his energy was unbelievable. When he arrived to pick me up he immediately noticed the birds, and in 15 minutes, before we even got in the car, I had seen 14 species, with 6 “lifers,” including 5 endemic to Central America. Marino was really something! He heard the bird, found it, and made sure I saw it well before going on to the next one; a preview of our day together.
Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher at Trogon Lodge
So, off we went, getting about 1 mile down the road, when he stopped and jumped out of the car to show me something else he spotted. Ten minutes later we headed out again, having seen 10 species, with another “lifer.” Our destination was Savagre Lodge, which is the “original” birder’s destination in Costa Rica. It was a sprawling complex, beautifully manicured, with meeting rooms, a spa, huge restaurant, and cabins. It certainly wasn’t the “rustic” birding lodge I had pictured. It was big, overly organized, and trying to be everything to everyone. We immediately “birded” around the lodge, and in 20 minutes, had 28 species, with five more “lifers.” Marino then took me to the restaurant, told them I was his guest, and we had a quick breakfast of fruit and toast before getting back into the car and heading up the mountain behind the lodge. We parked and headed out on the trails, which were nicely groomed, and easy to hike on. Marino was really great, describing bird calls and spotting birds. He knew where there was a Quetzal nest, and had seen a chick there two days earlier. So off we went – nothing! The nest was empty! But almost at the same time he heard Quetzals and we kept going down the trail, as he called them, and soon we spotted a female, a mature male, a juvenile, and the chick, only a day out of the nest. This was my target bird for the trip, and I got the whole family!
We birded for three more hours, and then headed down the mountain. He wanted to check on his wife, who was apparently ill, and we decided to take an hour and a half to grab lunch, while he checked on her. He told the restaurant that I was his guest, so I went through the buffet, and sat on the porch, watching the birds flying all around, as they fed among the flowers, trees and shrubs.
Marino met me again and we headed off to some mid-level trails on the adjacent property. He spent some time looking for some Spotted Wood Quail he had seen the day before, only to be disappointed. So on we went, and within a few minutes we were deep under the rain forest canopy, and almost immediately the skies opened up and made the rain forest real. Though it was so dark under the canopy that it was hard to see, Marino pressed on. I finally told him that it was time to head back, as the conditions weren’t ideal. He reluctantly headed back, the rain stopped, and once again, we were birding! After seeing few birds during the rain, we walked out of the heavy forest and suddenly encountered a number of species, the neatest being the Spangle-cheeked Tanager.
The entire day with Marino resulted in 44 species seen, with 19 “lifers, including my target bird. I was exhausted, but more than pleased.
Spangle-cheeked Tanager
Day 10 – Tuesday, Apr 16 — Final Day! I awoke at 5 AM (no monkeys here, but they had instilled a habit) and decided to bird until the restaurant opened at 7 AM. Marino had told me to look for a bird that usually could be seen at Trogon, and, knowing what to look for, I found it, my last “lifer” for the trip. After breakfast and packing, Jeffrey arrived promptly at 9 AM to drive me to the airport. He was as surprised as I was. He told me that it was the first time he ever drove someone so far and then picked them up again for another trip.
Our 2-hour trip was uneventful, taking us through San Jose to the airport, which is actually in Alajuela, the adjacent city. It turns out that arriving early was good, as I needed some of the time. I knew I had to pay an exit tax, but had no idea where. So, having a printed boarding pass, I headed to security, where after snaking through the line, learned that I had to pay the tax and get a receipt at the other end of the terminal. So, I did this, also having to fill out a form that wasn’t too clear. Back to the security line; up to the official, and I learn that they don’t accept an online boarding pass, but that I needed to return to the airline counter to get a new one. Another line. An airline rep checked my departure tax form, and was very helpful with completing the back of the form, which didn’t have any specific instructions that I could see. So, next the new boarding pass, the security line and the same official, who greeted me with a big smile. He checked everything, smiled and said “Senor Douglas, everything is correct.”
My 2:35 PM flight departed on time, and we arrived in Charlotte early. Customs and another security check, and then another on time departure, with an early arrival in Providence Myer and Kyle were there at the bottom of the escalator; Kyle holding up his cell phone with my name displayed on it.
I arrived home, tired, excited to be home, and having experienced a trip that exceeded any dreams of what such a trip would be; 226 different bird species seen, with 143 “lifers;” animals seen that I never even thought of; great guides; wonderful people, spectacular scenery, and excellent food.
Thank you Gretchen, and the rest of the staff at Pacific Trade Winds, for your effective efforts to make this such an outstanding trip. Every driver, lodge, guide and location was top notch, and the experience exceeded my expectations. Thank you Phyllis for this outstanding, once in a lifetime gift!
